A TECHNIQUE DRIVEN Blog dedicated to mastery of surface design techniques. First we dye, overdye, paint, stitch, resist, tie, fold, silk screen, stamp, thermofax, batik, bejewel, stretch, shrink, sprinkle, Smooch, fuse, slice, dice, AND then we set it on fire using a variety of heat tools.
Thursday, June 30, 2011
Wednesday, June 29, 2011
Tuesday, June 28, 2011
If you are interested in making some prayer flags (monoprints or whatever), here is the link for that project. Yours could be exhibited as part of a show!
Monday, June 27, 2011
Friday, June 24, 2011
Monoprinting can be done in several different ways, like squirting paint on a piece of glass and swirling it around, or by making a gelatin plate and using that for your printing surface, using a carved linoleum block, even using a piece of bubble wrap, a carved potato or a sponge. Resists can be created with paper, or by adding leaves, stems, or other organic material.
Here are some links to examples of monoprinting:
The link below gives a good explanation of gelatin printing, and also tells how to make the gelatin plate.
Monday, June 20, 2011
I made several screens with thickened dye paste and a navy blue dye powder. The first one I used was several horizontal strips, which I then used a lemon-lime dye powder in the release paste.
This is the piece after hitting it with the screen until my screen ran out of thickened dye on it.
Then, I took a second screen that I had made circles on, and pulled some tangerine colored release paste over that.
I love the contrast -- the tangerine actually printed out as brown because of mixing with navy blue.
This is a piece of my finished product.
I then tried this process with a new screen on another piece of fabric that I had batiked last summer. I think the color I used here was purple--this is when it's still wet, you can see how dark it still is.
Again, it wasn't too interesting, so I took some fuchsia dye power and mixed w/the release paste and used this screen after the piece had dried for a while.
With the fuchsia--
One more little piece with a single screen print on it--I'll have to do another one on top of it.
I learned that this process is really pretty easy--and the results are definitely a surprise. When it's hot and dry, like it has been here in NC, you can make several sets of screens a day, as they dry very quickly. As with any process, you get some attempts turning out better than others. I'll definitely use this technique again! I'd also like to learn more about making stencils and templates for the screens, as I didn't try that yet.
Friday, June 17, 2011
Tuesday, June 14, 2011
Here is the process that we started with. First we had a padded surface which we covered with plastic. I added another layer of cloth just to act as a drop cloth. Next we put down the low relief items we wanted to print THEN we put the cloth we wanted to screen OVER them. Last comes the screen laid directly on the fabric( over the stuff, over the drop cloth, over the plastic, over the padded surface.) Got that? Then you screen the fabric paint pressing hard with your squeegee. Here are my results.
At this point we stopped because we were not getting the prints we expected. I went back and re-read the directions and decided we were missing a stage. I tried again the next day and here are the results.
This one is the shadow print. This time I placed the screen from the direct print onto a new piece of fabric. There was still paint on the screen. There was nothing between the screen and the new piece of fabric. I squeegeed the screen with a clear textile medium and the paint left on the screen where the fern was printed on the fabric. You can see it best on the top left. It would have shown up better if I had been careful about the wrinkles and had used a darker color on the direct print. This is like the image we saw posted on the link.
Now here is what I learned. Both those techniques are interesting. The first technique is really easy. I might try that again. The second technique which is really the low relief screen printing method (I think) is very nice but is a lot of work. The direct print requires a dark paint. The shadow print requires you to remove any extra paint from the well of the screen so that you can screen with the clear textile medium. And you need to do it quickly so the thin layer of paint on the screen does not dry on your screen and ruin it. THEN you need remove the clean medium so that won't dilute the paint for your next direct print. I think I can get the same results from a monoprint without having to worry about ruining my screen or having to keep cleaning it.
My two cents. I would love to hear if you have tried the technique
This is the piece I sent to Judi. I snow dyed it this last winter. I am working on Suzi's piece now - it took me a couple of weeks to get up the nerve. It is very pretty and didn't want to ruin it! Marti
Sunday, June 12, 2011
Now for the dismal failure...I thought I'd try something different. I colored a picture on my fabric using pastels (Alphacolor by Weber Costello) for the background along with watercolor pencils (Karat Aquarell by Staedtler) and watersoluble ink pencils (Inktense by Kerwent). I tried binding that to the fabric using ProChem's base extender (PROfab Textile Paint).
Friday, June 10, 2011
I have passed along my burning sun fabric and now have a new piece to work on. I am so into my fugitive/immigrant medium that I started right away. Here is the fabric as it came to me.
Thursday, June 9, 2011
I FINALLY got focused on screen printing. I have three screens from previous classes I've taken. I wanted to just "get my feet wet" today, so I got out some old muslin fabric and decided to do a couple of prints. Then I remembered I needed to tape two of my frames. I took pictures as I did it and followed Jane Dunnewold's instructions on how to do it efficiently. I thought I'd share it with you.
First you should know that you need to use duct tape to tape it. Jane says she has had good luck using Gorilla brand duct tape, because you don't have to let it cure for 24 hours. Regular duct tape needs to cure for 24 hours or the water will make it release from the frame. (I didn't remember this, so I only had one screen to work with today.) Anyway, this is how you do the taping.
Step 1--Start with the back of the frame (flat side) facing you. Line the tape up with the inside edge of the frame. Tape all four sides.
Tuesday, June 7, 2011
Later I used fabric paint in a plastic applicator to “attempt to” draw another crow next to the screened crow image after the fabric had been washed and dried. The lines came out too thickly for my taste so I stopped and used free motion to finish the “sketch”. I also free motioned details on to first screened image. I added some text and quilted.
This could be used as a gift idea to make a "silhouette" of a pet or grandchild and stitch details and use text to personalize